Wanted to share with you guys my hang board training regiment. I just got into hang board training a month ago and I’ve been feeling stronger ever since.

I do a 15 minute hang board workout that consists of pull-ups, hangs, and negatives. I do this twice a week after bouldering. I also included sit-ups in my routine – I don’t think you can ever have too much core strength for climbing.

Here are a few things I keep in mind during my workout: I never let my arms get completely straight; I always leave a little bend in my elbows to try and prevent unnecessary injuries. I also try to do these exercises with as much control as possible; I’d rather do two pull ups with perfect form than five pull ups with improper form. I believe it makes a world of difference.

  • 0:00 – 1:30
    • 5 pull-ups + 5 negatives on a jug
  • 1:30 – 3:00
    • 1 minute hang on a jug
  • 3:00 – 4:30
    • 30 second hang on a medium edge + 5 pull ups on a jug
  • 4:30 – 6:00
    • 30 second hang on a jug + 5 pull ups on a medium edge
  • 6:00 – 7:30
    • 20 second hang on a pinch + 5 negatives on a pinch
  • 7:30 – 9:00
    • 15 second hang on a small edge + 15 second hang on a medium edge + 10 pull ups on a large edge
  • 9:00 – 10:30
    • Rest
  • 10:30 – 12:00
    • 15 second hang on a small edge + 15 second hang on a medium edge + 10 pull ups on a pinch
  • 12:00 – 13:30
    • 30 second hang on a slope + as many pull ups as I can do on a large jug with perfect form
  • 13:30 – 15:00
    • Sit-ups for the whole minute and a half – no rest.

Try it out for yourself and see how it goes – tweak it as you need. Remember, every climber is on his own level. There is no need to overtrain and hurt yourself (climbing is a marathon, not a race).