As you might have expected, the answer to this really depends on the person. Some people are busy with work and other life obligations so they only get to go once a week. Others may choose to make more time for climbing and go as much as 5 times a week. On the extreme end of things, I’ve heard Adam Ondra say that he climbs 30+ hours a week when he’s training for competitions; which can seem pretty crazy for the rest of us. Essentially, you have to make a choice as to what works best for you. Everyone’s got their own life schedule so it would be hard to make that call for you but I’ll let you guys know what I’m doing and hopefully that may help you reach your decision!

I used to go climbing four times a week (Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday). It was awesome but felt I lacked recovery time; I’d always go back to the gym the next morning feeling stiff and sore. After a bit of warming up I always felt okay but I was never climbing at 100%.

Recently I switched up my schedule. I climb three days a week now (Monday, Wednesday, and Friday) and I feel this provides me with sufficient recovery time. I am still just testing it out but so far I can’t complain! I am more energized when I get to the gym and am climbing closer to my potential. I also have the energy to do hang board training after I’m done bouldering. I do this twice a week, usually Monday and Friday; the reason I chose those days was because on Monday I have the most energy and on Friday I’ll have the longest recovery time.

So far this has been working for me pretty well. I’ll keep you posted as time passes (this is only my second week trying it out) but I just wanted to give you a quick update. Remember, the key to climbing is to have fun. Don’t push yourself to the point where you stop enjoying climbing as much. Everyone’s different and everyone climbs for their own reasons. Learn to love climbing and the progress will come.

Anyways.. let me know what works best for you in the comments below!

Wanted to share with you guys my hang board training regiment. I just got into hang board training a month ago and I’ve been feeling stronger ever since.

I do a 15 minute hang board workout that consists of pull-ups, hangs, and negatives. I do this twice a week after bouldering. I also included sit-ups in my routine – I don’t think you can ever have too much core strength for climbing.

Here are a few things I keep in mind during my workout: I never let my arms get completely straight; I always leave a little bend in my elbows to try and prevent unnecessary injuries. I also try to do these exercises with as much control as possible; I’d rather do two pull ups with perfect form than five pull ups with improper form. I believe it makes a world of difference.

  • 0:00 – 1:30
    • 5 pull-ups + 5 negatives on a jug
  • 1:30 – 3:00
    • 1 minute hang on a jug
  • 3:00 – 4:30
    • 30 second hang on a medium edge + 5 pull ups on a jug
  • 4:30 – 6:00
    • 30 second hang on a jug + 5 pull ups on a medium edge
  • 6:00 – 7:30
    • 20 second hang on a pinch + 5 negatives on a pinch
  • 7:30 – 9:00
    • 15 second hang on a small edge + 15 second hang on a medium edge + 10 pull ups on a large edge
  • 9:00 – 10:30
    • Rest
  • 10:30 – 12:00
    • 15 second hang on a small edge + 15 second hang on a medium edge + 10 pull ups on a pinch
  • 12:00 – 13:30
    • 30 second hang on a slope + as many pull ups as I can do on a large jug with perfect form
  • 13:30 – 15:00
    • Sit-ups for the whole minute and a half – no rest.

Try it out for yourself and see how it goes – tweak it as you need. Remember, every climber is on his own level. There is no need to overtrain and hurt yourself (climbing is a marathon, not a race).